La Soupe Populaire, German Food, Prenzlauerberg


The Menu at La Soupe Populaire
Tim Raue’s newest venture is at the Bötzow Brewery.  Championing German food (yes – apparently it’s possible) in the original space of the former brewery.

Two of us sit perched up high on leggy metal work.  Surrounded by Futuring, an exhibition by Eva & Adele (who were described to me as Berlin’s answer to Gilbert and George when I asked Sylee what on earth was up with the bald couple in drag?)  The sharp acoustics of cutlery and voices in the cavernous space are offset by the rain coming down in a persistent rhythmic patter.

Futuring exhibitionAt lunch time on Saturday, there are 4 tables occupied besides our own.  The customers are all german, slim, elegant and wearing navy.  The men have either allowed themselves to go silver, all the more to set off their naturally tan (not sunbed or spray on) skin.  And the women have silky blond hair, the kind that can be washed in the morning  and suffer no ill effects when exposed to 24 hour downpours.

La Soupe PopulaireI want to invite the female Maitre D’ to the bathroom so I can bop her on the head and steal her outfit: blue peep toe wedges on top of which she wears skinny trousers with a blue flowered pattern that looks like it would be equally at home on fine bone china.The ladies toilet at Bötzow Brewery

I resist the urge and apply my attention to the business of ordering.  There is the Prawn Cocktail KaDeWe (€14) which comes with prawns bigger than my thumbs, the dressing enlivened by punchy Piment d’Espelette (a spice I own and love often).

Konigsberger KlopseFor the main course, two handsome Königsberger Klopse appear wearing crowns of fluffy crumbs, a third sphere made up of thinly sliced beetroot nestles at the top.  Besides being the most attractive plate of meatballs I’ve ever seen,the perfectly seasoned mash that comes with them and the sauce they are bathed in are utterly delicious.

My dish is rabbit liver with tiny pearl onions, dyed red from the vinegar they have stewed in and manifesting more as an unknown berry than an alium.

Amuse of white asparagus, pork fat and home baked breadGerman fare is hearty stuff, even in these delicate portions.  Especially as we started the meal off with a plate of pork fat (Schmaltz) in place of the more traditional butter.  And yet.  It’s all been good enough to prompt me into dessert.

Bee Sting Cake at La Soupe PopulaireIt has to be the bee sting cake (Bienenstich).  Which comes with a fat bee fashioned out of almonds, a scoop of apricot sorbet at its center and a crispy (impressive given the humidity of the day)  tuile on its top.

Chocolate trufflesEspressos to finish accompanied by truffles whose insides are almost liquid and come in an antique box.

Is Tim Raue’s newest venture a success in concept? Absolutely.  He is right to revive German fare to suit modern tastes, in the way people like Mark Hix, Simon Hopkinson and even Heston Blumenthal at Dinner have been doing for British Food.

Futuring ExhibitionI’m concerned about the prices.  Not because I find them extortionate in relation the quality of the food, or the service – which is impeccable but because I know Berlin to be an extremely price sensitive city.  And although The Ritz might charge €18 for a currywurst and the monied visitor will pay it – there is no way that customer will find his way to a defunct brewery, where you have to follow the voices to find the restaurant.  And what you will be left with is punters going “€18 for two meatballs?” and waving their palms in front of their crossed eyes in that physical German expression that translates as moronic-imbeciles.

But then again maybe I’m wrong.  I paid €65 for Pret A Diner in 2011 and the place was packed.  And La Soupe Populaire has a very similar vibe but with infinitely better food and service.

La Soupe Populaire
Bötzow Brewery
Prenzlauer Allee 242
Prenzlauerberg (close to Soho House)
Opening: Thursday to Saturday, Noon to midnight
http://lasoupepopulaire.de/en

About these ads

5 Responses to La Soupe Populaire, German Food, Prenzlauerberg

  1. Sylee says:

    Yay! (& that bee is to die for…)

  2. celine says:

    Hi it s funny I am sure I saw eva and adele walking in the street in prenzlauerberg few years ago I recognized them from a tv documentary…

    • So did Chris, he was telling me about a bald couple who said they came from outer space, I thought he lost it completely at the time but turns out he was right.

  3. Paulina Bembel says:

    The bee would be a great petit four , served on a edible flower petals.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 2,050 other followers

%d bloggers like this: