Anna Durkes, Italian Ice Cream, Kreuzberg
July 10, 2013 7 Comments
Anna Durkes in Kreuzberg makes gelato. It’s smoother than your average Berlin kugel and creamier, its richness coats the mouth like butter.
The shop isn’t your average eis laden. With an island of cream painted metal furniture looking like oversized stick insects in repose at its center. On one side is a pale blue wall with hovering plugs to power some hanging lanterns which have bright orange power cords. In the window there are a couple of oversize plastic cups in the same shade of orange as the cords.
Flavours are concentrated around nuts and chocolates, to the point that a pair of young women come in and after saying how nice the shop is, leave because there are too many chocolatey types and presumably they were in a sorbet frame of mind. Everyone who is working there when I go is gloriously Italian. Who doesn’t love to be around an Italian? A breed apart that seem to be able to stop and smell the flowers or savour the espresso as is the case today. As the guy wearing the Ben Sherman Target t-shirt illustrates when he sits down with his espresso to read the newspaper. “Questo caffé è buonissimo.” He enthuses. “Buonissimo.”
Being curious, I went for 4 mini scoops (€0.30 each), the most successful of which was the stracciatella the least of which was the melon, which in this creamy incarnation lacked the typically identifiable fruity acidic notes.
I do love what a rich and varied ice cream topography Berlin has. There is my favourite Hokey Pokey, the great Vanille Marille but really, any retail street will have a shop selling ice cream, usually organic for next to nothing. The right to a scoop is much the same as the Currywurst, bringing everyone together to take a pause. To savour a scoop or two (or three, Germans really really like their ice cream!) of ice cream is to savour a few moments in the day.