Comerç 24, Contemporary Food with 1 Michelin Star, El Born
October 29, 2013 3 Comments
I have a good friend who has the same family positioning as mine, albeit she has 3 boys (the youngest two who are twins) and I have 3 girls and she is 4 years ahead. She sends me messages from the bathroom, I reply, from my bathroom. Contrary to all these allegations of post pregnancy incontinence, I think mostly, it’s just women carving (with a dull spoon) some moments of solitude and tiled harmony from the only place they can get away with locking the door: the bathroom.
At this juncture in my life, my birthday wish was for a smidgen of solitude (to hell with world peace, I mean clearly, we are an animal incapable of harmonious living). So for the birthday of unmentionable age, I had lunch at Comerç 24.
Comerç 24 is a different kind of animal. On its website, its billed as a tapas bar “with the convenience and service of a classic restaurant“. I can confirm that the portions are small but that even when sticking to the smaller of the two tasting menus you end up being full to the point of bursting because some of the dishes are so rich (foie gras quenelles with rice, I mean you). I found the red and yellow colour scheme dated and felt a bit silly sitting on my plush swivel chair while people outside scavenged for saleable goods in the large dumpster positioned right outside the floor to ceiling window – it was all a bit Victor Victoria.One of my servers was fantastic while the other seemed distracted. Leaving me alone with a signature ‘pizza': a round of crisp pastry topped with mozzarella, figs and a shaggy bunch of leaves. It took one look at me and shattered into a gazillion pieces so I was left picking up crumbs and leaves and…well then the ‘good’ waiter saw my predicament and gave me some cutlery.
Lots of my food came on or in rocks. Like the two paper-thin slices of Monkfish reclining on a smudge of black sesame which had me contemplating licking the reminder off. Or the Kinder egg: nestled in a rock and filled with truffles and rich egg (divine).
I found desert to be a unharmonious bunch of elements; a refreshing Lemon Ice Tea, a peculiar saffron ice cream paired with apple and a motley crew of chocolate desserts.
Except for grit on some micro leaves, I could not find fault with the meal but I’m not convinced about the format. I loved the buzz at Tapas 24 but found the meal at Comerç lagged in places and the dishes themselves (bar the kinder egg and the monkfish) weren’t reason enough for me to return – whereas I would line up for a bit of Tapas 24 fun any day.
Carrer del Comerç, 26
El Born 08003