They were smooth and creamy with not even the slightest hint of stinginess. The flesh was a deep orange and sweet but balanced with a prick of sour . I never ate mangoes like that again. They just don’t exist anywhere else. The only time I found any fruit that bore any resemblance to those fondly remembered Egyptian ones was when Selfridges ran a Bollywood promotion in 2002 (yes, when a mango is that good, I can give you specific dates), they were selling small Alphonso mangoes for close to €5 a pop. Those came close……and then, I had the mango ice cream at the Amorino stand in front of Galeries Lafayette and I was transported to those dark hot nights as a little girl in Egypt, staying up late and eating mangoes.
I researched the brand a little on the internet. It’s a chain. Started by two Italian guys that look like they are in the fashion business rather than the ice cream business. On their website, they talk about how they only use organic ingredients and traditional methods and the chefs oversee the making of ice cream daily (blah, blah, blah). But with 43 shops in France alone and a further 15 in Europe, I’m pretty sure they’ve got a factory somewhere churning the stuff out.It’s very heavily branded and as part of their differentiation, they use a kind of spatula to mould the ice cream into flowers. The fanning ice cream requires your full attention because it starts to melt instantaneously. Currently 3 out of my 5 summer scarves are sporting mango coloured stains.
They could be using an old shoe as a scoop for all I care, it’s that good. I tell you, if you do one thing this summer, try that mango ice cream! I’ve also tried stracciatella, passion fruit, banana, grapefruit and chocolate (very full-on that last one, you have to be a committed chocolate fiend to enjoy it.)A medium cone goes for €4 and comes with a branded sheath that covers the bottom half of the cone.
You have to pay for it before you order your ice cream, something the ditzy staff really insist on. Ah yes, the staff: they are very young and prone to giggling. Some excel at flower shaping and some don’t.
But forget all that, you are there for the mango ice cream.
M-a-n-g-o i-c-e c-r-e-a-m
Amorino Stand (Until end of August)
In front of Galeries Lafayette
Corner of Friedrichstrasse & Jägerstrasse