Hedone, Produce Led Food, Chiswick, London

Timeout London has this stamp sized rubrique that I love entitled “Lies to Tell Tourists“. This week it’s: “Hyde Park only has one corner, making it a mathematical phenomenon.” Submitted by@TomGoodliffe through Twitter.  Even without Timeout, there are some pitfalls to navigate for tourists as many of them trying to get to ‘Liechester Square‘ (Leicester pronounced Lester) will know.  Or take this restaurant in ChisWICK, pronounced Chisik.  It’s called Hedone, from the Greek word meaning pleasure.  I know how to pronounce Hedonistic but Hedone? Is the e silent or not?

My good friend Andrew of the blog LDNEATSNYC is always asking me why I go to Michelin restaurants?  The answer is, because eating at a good one is a bit like getting a front row seat at a catwalk show. Sure, no one bar Lady Gaga wears that stuff but it’s the pinnacle of food fashion.I enjoy eating in them on occasion. The good ones, like Aqua last weekend, in particular. However the food venue (I don’t want to say restaurant because that format doesn’t appeal to me)  that I have been building up in my imagination over the years is the polar opposite of a 3 starred Michelin place. In fact, it’s a lot more like Hedone.

It relies on exemplary produce and traditional preparation and cooking techniques.  An idea and ideal that Mikael Jonsson explains very well on his Gastroville webpage.

Hedone has only been open since July but already a positive write-up in the Financial Times and one by Guy Dimond for Timeout have made it difficult to get a reservation.  Even out in Chiswick.

I was astounded by our first starter; a small fillet of mackerel and 3 raw cauliflower florets, blindingly white, dressed in a little lemon and olive oil.  Daring.  Ha! I had seen nothing yet.  Next starter, a quarter of an onion that has A.O.P denomination from Cévennes in France (from which it takes its name), one paper-thin slice of pear-collapsed over itself and a puddle of dressing.  A quarter of an onion? In a menu of 4 courses for £50.  What a statement.  It would have been awkward if that onion couldn’t stand up to the hype, if it wilted in the spotlight. But it didn’t, it shined and was all the more incredible imbued with the confidence of a chef who saw its star potential.

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Spuntino, Small Dishes, London

Small dishes.  I don’t know if we’ve been conditioned by our years of channel flicking to be unable to commit.  Whatever it is, I like it.  It’s very much a part of my culinary history being half Jordanian and growing up in Greece.

Spuntino is the third restaurant in the portfolio of Russell Norman and Richard Beatty (they’ve previously done two Italian restaurants Polpo and Polpetto).  It’s American inspired food served in a chic distressed interior, with chipped glazed tiles.  You eat at the wrap around bar where you are served by gorgeous young things that look like their other job is posing for American Apparel adverts.  Besides being easy on the eye, the kids have a casual serving technique, sauntering over nonchalantly to give me a tin mug of warm chili popcorn while I studied the menu.I get the spicy mackerel slider (£4.50), panzanella (£5.50)  salad and the soft shell crab with tabasco mayonnaise (£8.50).  Tabasco mayonnaise? inspired.  In my head I go: “yes, Yes, YES!” and mentally pound on the counter Sally Albright style and the guy next to me reads my mind and says “I’ll have what she’s having.” Read more of this post

A Wedding in Urbino; lunch at Scacco Matto, Bologna; Pizza at Paolo’s, Verona. Italy.

The plan had been to leave Layla behind with my mother and attend my girlfriend’s wedding in Urbino with my husband: a handsome and groomed couple.  This was going to be the one wedding where I didn’t have to change into my dress in the car, hastily wiping my underarms with some old kleenex.  Eh, ya.  Because you go your whole life being one way only to discover that you can be another way? No, of course not.My mother’s business in Athens is suffering so she had to return.  I was happy to have Layla with me because the two weeks I spent travelling without her, I felt that there was a glowing piece of coal sitting heavily on my heart.  Then the chaos of traveling with a child began, Air Berlin issued her an ‘infant’ boarding card even though she is over 2 and we had paid full fare.  The onboard stewardess made us produce every single document, receipt and paper we had to prove we hadn’t smuggled a child on in the cheaper fare ‘baby’ tariff.  The luggage handler broke her pram, I filled out the paperwork and was told I would have to sort out any future compensation with Air Berlin which I am pretty sure is never going to happen because there is no way a scatter brain like me can possibly gather all the correct paperwork, from the right people and speak to the designated department.  Europcar didn’t have the baby seat we booked.  *Shrug* was all they had to say, until my husband said that he would walk on broken glass, barefoot, to avoid his wife’s wrath so they better magic up a car seat and fast like! Which they did.  I didn’t book any of the hotels the bride recommended and instead, picked the only ugly hotel to be found in Urbino.  Which had zero hot water, not even a drop: so I didn’t wash my hair, the whole time I was there and spent the entire trip crusted in dried soap because I couldn’t get my body to stand under freezing water.

On the day of the wedding, I laid Layla’s pretty dress out on the bed so it wouldn’t get crumpled, (and that is where it remained by the way)  and got ready.  On the way there, we got lost for one hour and a half, in a town no bigger than my street in Berlin and couldn’t for the life of us find the house perched on the hill.  Getting desperate, we turned into a farm where an old lady sat, knee-high panty hose hanging loosely around her ankles, behind her, two-story high bales of hay.  I motioned at my ring finger frantically, “Marrido, Marrido?” I asked.  She shooed us away probably thinking, “what do I care your are married, get off my property!”  Until, her daughter saw us and started laughing “Wedding?” she asked, looking at her watch as if to say “You missed it!”, pointed us in the right direction.We arrived in time for canapes.  Layla dressed in a t-shirt and jeans when all the other children were in pretty dresses with flowers in their hair.  I had to ditch the high heels because it was a garden wedding.  And Hrabi decided that was the right time to tell me he found my dress too low-cut, which made me paranoid enough to put on a bulky sweater, rendering my well thought ensemble from chic to frump.  I was mortified when Layla kept repeating “Mommy it’s hot! Take off your sweater!”

The bride, meanwhile made you tear your eyes away from the undulating hills and gape at how lovely she was.  Ivory dress, low heeled gold peep toe shoes, slender legs, effortlessly elegant and charming as always.  We ate fried calamari in paper cones, two courses of pasta and instead of a tasteless cake, she had the local ice cream shop set up a booth.  It was dreamy. Read more of this post

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London, UK

* “But he isn’t wearing anything at all!” Cried the child in the tale of the Emperor’s New Clothes. Let me tell you, I felt a bond with that kid when I dined at Dinner.

It’s not that the food is bad but rather that it isn’t special enough to warrant a 4 month wait.  We are talking London after all, there are so many other options that are serving food that is as good and in a lot of cases a lot better. Read more of this post

Nopi, Ottolenghi’s Sibling, London, UK

*I will say it, I had my doubts about Nopi living up to the hype.  How could anything top Ottonlenghi?  Even if it was done by Yotam Ottolenghi himself (and it should be said, Sami Tamimi).  I should have never doubted the duo.

The food I had at Nopi was extraordinary.  Not because it relied on complicated techniques or spewed liquid nitrogen but because it was a complete synergy of flavours that is just awe-inspiring. And yes, I realize that I am talking about food and not…well I don’t know, something more worthwhile but being able to understand and amplify flavour like that, well it’s a little bit like magic.  Or like a perfumer, adept at taking individual smells and amalgamating them into new successful combinations.

The Burrata with peach and fennel seed dust (£12) was out of this world.  The combination was entirely new to me, in its totality it had an equal effect to what I imagine eating a peach for the first time must be like.  Fantastic.  Equally the non-fried doughnuts I had for dessert (made of brioche I was told) was just about the best yeasted thing to have passed my lips in a very long time. Read more of this post

Pollen Street Social, Jason Atherton, London, UK

*Paris in the morning, London by midday. Two cities that could not be more different. In Paris there are waif like women, gliding around in high heels.  Here, all styles are go. I saw a young Japanese girl on the tube wearing glasses with no lenses and so much mascara that about 1/3 of her eyelashes were on the other side of the frame. On my way home, two girls in hot pants with miniature dogs and Amy Winehouse do’s, were saying they were ‘stylists’.

In London there is creativity, a proclivity to gravitate towards anything new and money.  The combination results in a constantly changing and evolving restaurant scene, no way would you find a restaurant you used to eat at 20 years ago like I did in Paris. Read more of this post

Paris: Mariage Freres, tea; La Grande Epicerie, groceries; Jipangue, Japanese food & Korean BBQ

*What has happened to the Parisians? It’s as if someone has put something in the collective water system, to render them all (well mostly) cordial. Of course there are still exceptions the man who couldn’t get past my bag at La Grande Epicerie who muttered very audibly “Excuse moi madame, mais il y a pas que vous dans le monde!” (Excuse me madame, but you are the only person in the world).

Similarly, shops are opened later and some even on Sundays on the Champs Élysées, in the Carrousel du Louvre and they have these beautiful mini-supermarket concepts like Tesco Express which tide over the inhabitants of the cartier.You hear that Berlin? I think it’s time to reconsider your strict “no shopping on Sunday policy” and yes I know you can go to the train stations if it’s really urgent but I just say Phooey to that!

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Azurmendi, Modern Basque 2**, Bilbao, Spain

*We purposely missed our flight to Paris preferring to drive from Burgos (Spain) to Caen (France) for our friend’s wedding. Maybe the rally gave me a taste for driving long distances, whatever it was, I couldn’t face the delays and hassles associated with air travel.

I used the Michelin guide to pick a restaurant for lunch, happily, it is now online: www.viamichelin.com, (they need to do an iphone application next I think). Azurmendi, looked like my kind of place; clean lines, brown and white palette, young chef, not overly fussy: except when it came to the food.Our schedule meant that we couldn’t linger over the tasting menu so we opted for two dishes each and three shared desserts to get a feel for the place. They started us off with their signature dish: an egg yolk that had been infused with truffle oil. “To be eaten in one bite”, were the instructions given to us by our young maitre de table. It exploded in our mouths; musky, salty and warm. It was sensational but somehow it bordered on unpleasant for both of us.  We had to shake it off and reframe our minds so that we could go on.

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Landa Palace & La Posada Ducal, Burgos, Spain

On this trip, I’ve discovered some things about myself; I like Cognac, morcilla and rallies.  The last one surprises me even more than the blood pudding.

Car rallies?

Really?

But what’s not to like? You stay in a nice hotel, spend a few hours driving around, stop at an important monument, have lunch, drive around, monument, dinner and then start again the next day.

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Bascook, Spanish Food, Bilbao, Spain

*

This month I will be taking 7 planes and 1 train: Berlin to Athens; to Bilbao; to Paris; to London; to Berlin; to Verona; to Berlin.

In my twenties, I was the type of person that came close to preparing a spreadsheet before I traveled. I checked the weather to pack appropriately. I carried along an emergency kit of rehydration salts, aspirin, Band-Aids, hand cream, lip balm, travel sized tissues, wet wipes, miniature inflatable boat.Imagine everyone’s surprise when for the coveted role of life partner, I chose, the polar opposite of me.

A man who until a couple of years ago thought it was perfectly acceptable to travel with a multitude of flimsy plastic bags standing in for the role of suitcase. We embarked on winter road trips without snow tires. Arrived at destinations without having a hotel booking. He was guaranteed to have brought along at least 10 car magazines, in 5 different languages but clean underwear? No. Toothbrush? No. “We can buy all that stuff there.” was the answer to my pointed tap tapping of my right foot, hand on hip. Read more of this post

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