Few sweet pastries have the ability to dispense with my good grasp of self-control – except for Canelés. The outside made up of a maximum caramelized, crunchy, sticky surface. And the inside, solid custard, flecked with black vanilla seeds, yielding. It’s a creme caramel you can hold in your hand, improved by texture, beveled edges, sharp ridges – pockets of bliss.
Not that I had to battle with lost self-control since the last Canelé I ate was at Dabbous, almost a year ago (post here).Except, there is this new place that opened up on Brunnenstraβe. With a striking fuchsia pink awning and tea roses on the tables. There is an exposed brick wall, rough and dusty which sets off the slick white counter with glass thick enough to safely display diamonds. Within the cabinet are elaborate cakes, striking enough that they look like large fancy brooches more than anything edible.
I feel that with this perfectly presented shop, Berlin’s food scene has turned the page to worthwhile. Just like that. Previously, to get pastry so sophisticated, one had to abide tedious hotel lobbies and cafes, with a wait and kitchen staff that appeared to be there through indentured service rather than any love for food or service. Du Bonheur on the other hand comes to us via the joint efforts of Stephan Zuber who worked at Uma and Anna Plagens who honed her skills in the kitchens of Pierre Hermé (see article in Tip magazine here).
The pastries are stunning examples of french classics while the furthest corner is given over to the tawnies and browns that are brioches, leavened layered pastries, breads and my beloved canelés. There are quiches – of which I tried the white asparagus with rosemary (not a fan of rosemary in something as delicate as this Quiche). I am itching to go back and try the tartines. And I am not embarrassed to say that this week I bought their entire supply of canelés bar one.
No Website but they have a Facebook Page
Wed – Sat: 08:00 – 19:00
Sun: 10:00 – 19:00