I walked down Mittenwalder Str, wondering if this street really led to the market hall? It all seemed too residential; a fat cat in a window here an old woman smoking a cigarette there…and then I walked into the bright square, glaring sunshine bouncing up off the cobblestones, a cacophony of squealing children, water falling from a great height and general buzz of people soaking up the early summer.
How come no one ever talks about this place? It’s cute as a button! All urban planned with trees offering shade, fountains and a playground for the children.
I had come to finally see the Marheineke Market Hall but I was surprised to also find a Bioland and Alnatura flanking the square. As well as Austria, the restaurant featured in Middlesex and about which Eugenides said “Anybody who wouldn’t like it is somebody I wouldn’t like.” (Before you go ahead assuming that I am so clever, I’m not but my friend Luisa, over at Berlin on a Platter, is: thanks Luisa!)
There is more food around of course, including Soluna Brot & Öl on Gneisenaustrasse. Barcomi’s Kreuzberg outpost on Bergmannstraβe. All of Bergmannstraβe is worth a wander actually, all the way to Mehringdamm on which you can find Curry 36 and Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap (which people here go bonkers for and I find ok). Of course you have to remember to leave some room for ice cream from Vanille & Marille on Hagelberger str.
Oh and to the person that once wrote to me asking where they good find a spätzle grater? Look no further, I found about 10 different types at In a la Munde, a store selling all things related to making pasta. I am taking a course there in two weeks time so I will tell you all about it then.
Getting back to the market hall. It’s a picture to look at on the outside, so much so that I made plans to permanently live under its green awnings. Inside, it’s a different story entirely. The white floors are already scruffy with wear, the stands looked dwarfed in the big space and mama is it hot in there! Overheating aside, there are a good selection of outlets. Notably Olgas Feinkost for Greek foodstuffs, Geflügel-Oase for all things feathered, Le Bretagne for French goods, El Naranco for Spanish (including chorizo by the piece) as well as a good butchers, fish mongers and cheese shops. Vegetable wise, a bit of a let down, nothing really exceptional or notable but that seems to be a Berlin wide issue.
I had lunch at Le Bretagne, a buckwheat pancake with Emmental cheese, ham and a fried egg.
Layla didn’t want to leave the playground, I got captivated by a game of pétanque. All in all, a day well spent. I look forward to taking my husband there and seeing what the rest of the food is like.
Sadly it’s closed on Sundays, that’s a pity. I bet you if they stayed open, they would be rammed!
Marheineke Markthalle
Marheinekeplatz/Bergmannstraße
10961 Kreuzberg
Opening Hours:
Mon-Fri: 8:00 – 20:00
Sat: 8:00 – 18:00
Closed Sundays
The scruff is nothing to what it was like 5 years ago! they rebuilt and renovated it entirely, and reoponed in it’s new and shiny state sometime in 2008 I think. It is a really nice place, you’re right, and it’s good to see it through a fresh set of eyes!
Have you been to Austria? The restaurant not the country.
We too were disappointed by the place, until we found the bio burger stand. Don’t know what it’s called, but their sandwiches and salads are great. Nice little find!
Oh, sounds good! Next time
Just wanted to note that I like your new mobile version of the blog? Did you do that or is it done through wordpress? Anyhow, looks really good now on mobile devices.
I’ll post the chocolate mousse recipe next week for you!
Yeah no, that’s all WordPress, they are always improving things.
Looking forward to the choc mousse!
http://grossbeeerenstrasse.blogspot.com/2011/05/to-do-list-explore-marheineke-market.html
thanks for your terrific blog !