The chorizo sandwich at Brorough Market is something my husband and I used to regularly queue for. The paprika laced smoke that wafted over our way stoked our appetites. Waiting for my grilled mackerel to come off the grill at Steckerlfisch easily replicates and possibly even surmounts that happy anticipation.
There is trout, char and squid but it’s the mackerel I’m here for. It’s flavourful flesh stands up effortlessly to strong flavours and it takes to any number of combinations as long as they too are robust. It can take the smoke raising up from the coals, until its silver fresh turns to copper riddled with black blisters. The guys at Steckerlfisch are generous with the salt and there is a shower of paprika besides. When the fish is ready, it is ‘plated’ on some thick white paper. With a sploge of seaweed by its tail, some coarsely chopped red onion, another blob of dill mayonnaise underneath the gills, horseradish, lemon wedges and a white semmel roll sporting smoky grill marks and making even me (not a lover of the semmel) to devour them hungrily. The composition is one I might find in Layla’s drawings and that adds to the appeal.
Did I mention that if you look closely, you will spot some dried flower petals strewn along the fish?
It’s perfect in composition and execution. One of my favourite things to eat in Berlin. And at the end, you can help yourself to the licorice fish in the plastic tub.
Steckerlfisch & Co
Wednesday: 10:00 – 14:00 Winterfeldtplatz
Thursday: 12:00 – 17:00 Breslauerplatz
Friday: 12:00 – 19:00 Arkonaplatz
Saturday: 10:00 – 16:00 Winterfeldtplatz