Schwarzwaldstuben, Swabian Food, Mitte

How do you say that name!?  Every time I try, my tongue ends up lolling out of the corner of my mouth, spent and defeated and the person I am trying to describe it to, just shakes their head.

I take a deep breath, resurrect my tongue and give it another go: “You know, the green one with Bambi that do a good schnitzel on TuttiFruttistrasse.”

“Oh, yes of course, Schwarzwaldstuben, on Tucholskystraße.  When are you going to learn German woman?!”

(Answer: around the same time I get my pre-Layla waist back.)

In London, if I wanted a schnitzel, I would try to get a table at the Wolseley, inevitably I would fail, then I would end up having a not so great chicken schnitzel at Harry Morgan in St. Johns Wood.  Here, schnitzel is taking over the world, or at least Berlin.  You might complain about the lack of good asian, middle eastern or spicy food (and believe me, I do, to anyone that will listen) food, but give these people some potatoes, a protein and some cucumbers and they will show you a good time!

It’s not just schnitzel, Schwarzwaldstuben specializes in Schwäbische Küche or Swabian Food which is said to be some of the best.   It’s the Swabians that gave us Spätzle, Knöpfle, Maultaschen, black forrest ham, sour cherries, pointed cabbage and fruit wine (all this according to Culinaria: Germany).  Hmm, writing all this makes me think maybe I should take a short trip down there to explore a bit.

The restaurant is full of whimsical visual cues; most of them having to do with deer or green mountains.  A large ceramic tiled heating oven squats at the far end of the restaurant and you just know, that is where you want to be seated in the bitter Berlin winters, when a heavy dish of Spätzle, greasy with so much cheese, would be perfect fare.

As we are enjoying an early summer.  I opted for the pork schnitzel with a side of vinegary potato salad with long ribbons of cucumbers running through it.  My friend had the Maultaschen.  I came across a new (to me) soda called Seezüngle that was not too sweet and came in a glass bottle with a ceramic stopper (which they let me keep, now I just need about 9 more to put my elderflower cordial into).

Another crucial draw is the prices, in a city that often errs on the expensive side; while side-stepping the implied subject of quality, they get it right.  €12.00 for the generous, delicious schnitzel; €9.00 for the Maultaschen; under €3.00 for fizzy drinks.

Obviously its a busy place come dinner time but plenty of room at lunch.

Tucholskystraße 48
10117, Mitte
T. 030 2809 8084
Underground: Oranienburger Tor

11 Responses to Schwarzwaldstuben, Swabian Food, Mitte

  1. Maria B says:

    Looks lovely and make me homesick.
    Thank, thank, thank you for providing me with a vendor of Seezüngle. I love that drink and haven’t been able to find it anywhere so far.

    • Yes, it’s odd, never come across it before but it was very tasty. I would like to find a retail outlet for it. Does their website say anything?

      • Maria B says:

        The website says there is no retailer, but it also says that there are no restaurants selling it. I wrote them yesterday and asked whether they could help me. I am going to let you know once they answer me.

  2. Maria B says:

    Oh and: Do come to the southern part of Germany. I find the attitude towards all things foodrelated to be a different one than here in Berlin.

  3. Maria B says:

    Ok, so there is one retailer in Berlin (Wohooo)
    This is their website. Enjoy :)

  4. Dorrie says:


    After all the Thai food, even if delicious, I’ll visit this place as soon as I’m in Berlin. Thanks for this post!

  5. David says:

    Your blog is lovely and I agree with most of your opinions - but what on earth did you smoke when you went to Schwarzwaldstuben and Alpenstück? (Or, maybe, what did I smoke every time I went there?)

    For me (Swiss) and basically any foodie I know, many of the from southern Germany, Schwarzwaldstuben has become a no go occupied by a nasty Lonely Planet crowd which is easily impressed with average Southern style food as long as it is served on a wooden chopping board. Alpenstück, on the other hand, is old school slow food, uses veal in their Maultaschen (which you can buy in the store, and try the Semmelknödel!) and has an excellent and impressively long list of wine exclusively form Germany and Austria.

    • I agree with you that Alepnstueck is more sophisticated and uses better ingredients than Schwarzwaldstuben. But I do find the food to be heavy at Alpenstueck - maybe that is how it is supposed to be. There is no way I could get through a whole plate of their Maultaschen, way to heavy for me, even with the veal.
      Schwarzwaldstuben is totally kitchy but quite good fun for lunch, which is when I usually go.

      • David says:

        Southern German cuisine is quite heavy, indeed. Don’t ever make the mistake of ordering a “Schäuferle” in Bararia unless you bring your whole family! Thats why I like the Alpenstück shop. At home I usually make two meals out what they sell me as one.

        Anyway, I hope my comment wasn’t rude. I read almost your complete blog last weekend and I really enjoyed it.

      • Not at all. Thanks for reading the blog and taking the time to comment.

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